July 29, 2021

Getting to Missoula

The direct route from Clarkston, Washington to Missoula, Montana is via U.S. 12, a winding mostly two-lane road that goes over the 5,233-foot Lolo Pass through the Bitterroot Range of the Rocky Mountains. The Nez Perce Indians used the route in the 18th century, and Lewis and Clark used it on their way to and from the Pacific Ocean in September 1805 and June 1806. We assumed that our RV-dedicated navigation system would route us that way and were surprised when it recommended instead that we take U.S. 195 and Interstate 90. The interstate route is about 90 miles longer but would take only an extra half hour. After a little exploration, we opted for the interstate route which we thought would be less stressful. We later drove to Lolo Pass from Missoula and were glad we had chosen the less winding route.

Even MapQuest suggested the direct route–but it didn’t have any way to know we were 60 feet long.

Garnet Ghost Town

Our first excursion from Missoula was to a ghost town about 50 miles east of our RV park. Most of the drive was on Interstate 90, but the last ten miles were on an unpaved road built in 1895. Residences are scattered along most of the road, but the last mile or two was quite bouncy–even in the Jeep.

Gold was first discovered in the Garnet range in 1865 but was of minor significance until a stamp mill and the road were built. In 1896 a rich vein was identified and within two years the town of Garnet had a population of about a thousand residents. Establishments developed including four stores, four hotels, three livery stables, two barber shops, a union hall, a school (with 41 students), a butcher shop, a candy shop, a doctor’s office, and 13 saloons. Garnet’s residents included more families than most mining towns (which usually were overwhelmingly single men) and activities such as dances, hay rides, quilting bees, and picnics were often held.

Out first view of Garnet
The building on the left is Kelly’s Saloon and the two-doored building on the right is a general store. The dark building on the far right is the J. K. Wells Hotel.
Bar in Kelly’s Saloon
Stove in the saloon

The general store next to the saloon was built before 1898. Frank A. Davey owned it from 1901 until his death in 1947.

Davey’s general store
The store sometimes served as the post office.
A baby walker

The J. K. Wells Hotel was next to the saloon. It was designed by Mrs. Wells and built in 1897.

Ladies’ parlor
Guest room
Guest room
This building was constructed as a cabin between 1896 and 1900 and was converted during World War I to a livery shed.
The Hanifen house was one of the nicer homes in Garnet. It was built in the early 1900’s.
This school was built in 1938.
The Honeymoon Cabin was constructed between 1896 and 1900 by a miner who lived on Frank Davey’s (the store owner’s) land. When the miner left, Davey let newlyweds live in it rent free until they found a house of their own or until a new couple got married and needed a place to stay.

By 1917 between $950,000 and $1,400,000 had been mined from the area around Garnet. It became increasingly difficult to mine profitably and by 1910 the town had only 150 residents. Gold prices rose in 1934 and the town saw an increase in population to about 250 residents, but World War II in 1939 drew the population away again. The post office closed in 1942. Frank Davey’s death in 1947 marked the beginning of Garnet as a ghost town.

The Bureau of Land Management acquired the site in 1972 and has stabilized many of the buildings. The building in the following three photos has not been stabilized and presents a sharp contrast to the buildings which have seen work.

A few miles from Garnet is the Sand Park Cemetery with four marked graves.

Categories: Travel

2 Comments

Susan · August 9, 2021 at 7:33 am

I assume there are guides there making sure nobody takes anything. I am reading these posts backwards so where is the RV parked while you are exploring?

    Jane Appel · August 9, 2021 at 12:23 pm

    We saw only two rangers. One welcomed us to the town and the other was weed-whacking. It would have been hard to have taken very much since guests had to walk into and out of the town past the ranger. We were in Missoula when we visited Garnet, the Grant-Kohrs ranch, and Lolo Pass.

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